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Cyphotilapia Disease, Health and Nutrition Discussion of Cyphotilapia frontosa & gibberosa diseases, health and nutrition.


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  #11  
Old 03-11-2016, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by neutrinoman View Post
...To go into more detail on acclimation, what I like to do receiving shipped fish is test the ph in the shipping bags when I get them so I know what I'm dealing with...
Good point to highlight! Knowing what you're dealing with is 75% of the battle.
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  #12  
Old 03-11-2016, 02:02 PM
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...As far as baking soda, I've never had a problem with it. I've used it for years to raise and buffer my water from 6.4-6.5-ish out of the tap to the mid or upper 7s, or even up to 8 at times. Don't know why a few people seem to have issues with it or what it is about their water that might give them problems with baking soda that I've never seen, so I can't comment on that and wouldn't disrespect their opinion. I just know that for me it's always worked well.
When my source pH dropped from 8.3 to 7.4, without warning, that I discovered by killing some wild Enantiopus Kilesa (which had not come in from the lake in, like, forever, and I was one of only a few people in the US to have wilds and like the only person breeding them... did I ever feel like a jerk killing them!!!), I started my reservoir tank system for my water changes. I tried raising the pH from 7.4 to 8.3 and had a hard time getting up to 8.0 and it took a lot of Baking Soda to do that. Not sure why I had problems? It was much easier for me to add a few scoops of SeaChem Tang Buffer and get the job done quickly.
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:09 PM
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Hey dean, what I would do if I was in your shoes is get a good start on measuring your water for ph gh and kh. I am a advocate of baking soda.. It will take care of buffering your ph as well as raising your ph.. Keep in mind baking soda will never raises your ph above 8.4... That is the max! The trick to using baking soda is to add enough to raise your KH or carbonate hardness.. Grab yourself a KH test kit. Start by adding a 1/4 teaspoon of BS to a 5 gallon bucket of tap water.. After adding each measure be sure it is dissolved and test with the KH test kit.. Once you get your kh readings into the 16-20 range you are done.. By raising your KH your ph will not fluctuate. Don't be hesitate to use this stuff.. Its in every cichlid buffer on the market
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Razzo View Post
When my source pH dropped from 8.3 to 7.4, without warning, that I discovered by killing some wild Enantiopus Kilesa (which had not come in from the lake in, like, forever, and I was one of only a few people in the US to have wilds and like the only person breeding them... did I ever feel like a jerk killing them!!!), I started my reservoir tank system for my water changes. I tried raising the pH from 7.4 to 8.3 and had a hard time getting up to 8.0 and it took a lot of Baking Soda to do that. Not sure why I had problems? It was much easier for me to add a few scoops of SeaChem Tang Buffer and get the job done quickly.
Good example why I won't argue about baking soda. I know it works for a lot of people, but I'm not a chemist to explain a scenario in which it's not as reliable for someone else as it's always been for me. I do know it has a limit how high it can raise ph as mentioned above by stefan and I know enough to know I can't always extrapolate what happens in my tanks to every other tank when it comes to things like water chemistry.

Meanwhile, any Seachem product I've ever used, including their buffers, have been good to me. Certainly wouldn't recommend against them, it's just a matter of choice or what works for you imo.
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Old 03-13-2016, 03:35 PM
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thanks again all!!!!!
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